The beating heart of adventure...Antarctica

It is 5:15pm on Friday afternoon in Saigon and the house is extraordinarily still. I call this the bewitching hour, when I have the house utterly and completely to myself. I wander from space to space, inside and out, enjoying the silence. It is the time of day when my thoughts run away from me and when I realise it is best to just let them run and play. Given my nature, it won't last long so it is best to enjoy it while I can.

I am going to let them run and play all the way to Antarctica. Why? Because I can.

Mr. H and I have a travel bucket list and I have to admit Antarctica has been somewhere on it...until now.

We have had family and friends return from recent trips to Antarctica singing poetically about their travel experiences. Each time I hear a "YOU MUST GO TO ANTARCTICA' my heart starts to do a little dance. I am not sure if it's the thought of the extreme cold or the possibility that I will will fall in love with the vast wilderness of it all.

Enter Joan Lawson, who I have come to appreciate as a pollarhullar, a danish word for a person with the yearning for the polar regions. I have read that a victim of pollarhullar will forever be drawn back to the very extremities of the Earth. Joan has been to Antarctica 14 times and looks forward to the next trip.  I am hoping pollarhullar is not contagions but based on Joan's writing and peoples comments about their experiences I think it might be.

I asked Joan if I could share one of her beautiful blog posts about her travel experiences. I actually asked if she could pick her favorite post as she has many, each one just as beautiful as the last. She suggested the following and I have to agree...if ever you were thinking of travelling to Antarctica, but like me, were not quite sure, this will be the one to do it.

With thanks to Joan for allowing me to enjoy the silence of Antarctica. Following the post, Joan has a few thoughts on the ins and outs of exploring it yourself.

Joan Larsen's Travel: 

A FLOATING WORLD- 

Breathtaking Images of Antarctica's Summer

By Joan Larsen

The waves of the world’s Southern Ocean had turned into a rare mirror-like calm as our ship glided into Antarctic waters. The passengers, strangers still, were out on the decks or bridge, watching the first icebergs stand tall on the horizon – looking like city skyscrapers that had mysteriously lost their way. The morning sunlight dappled the waters with flickers of light. No one took notice that the clock had not yet struck 3 AM.

Photo: Avid Travel Media

No one spoke. No one ever seems to speak when we are approaching Antarctica – for it truly is a sacred place that touches each of us in our own way. Much later, I will hear the words: “How could I ever describe this place to anyone?” said by one and all.

You can’t describe Antarctica. No words will ever do it justice. There is no way.

The ship seemed to drift. . . but up ahead the first group of stunning glacier-clad mountains appeared. There was a pureness, a serenity here that could not be matched anywhere in the real world. Real time was gone. Our eyes could not believe what we were seeing.

But now – as if it were planned – the icebergs had caught up to us and – like floats in a Rose Bowl Parade –seemed to vie with one another for the title of largest, most other-worldly, most populated with adorable penguins in their black-and-white head-waiter garb.

To say that we were captivated would be an understatement. Breakfast went by and we did not care. Cameras at the ready, we were out to not miss a single one in the passing parade. In most cases, passengers were the size of ants in comparison to the height and size of the gorgeous icebergs. We actually were at a loss for words.

And the iceberg photos below are but a few that seem to touch my mind and heart in an indelible fashion that first morning. It was then that we had our first Zodiac raft excursions as well to see the icebergs up close – but not too close as we found they could easily flip!

Photo: Steppes Travel

Suddenly appearing – in pods most often – – killer whales having play time would always add to the eye appeal.

Photo: Rebecca Yale Portraits

And, as this was early in the season, the passengers fell in love with the babies – seals, sea lions, and penguins – that populate Antarctica in numbers by the millions. On shore – and we were on shore many hours a day – the curiosity of some of the young penguins and seals was too much. We were not to touch them, BUT when we humans were sitting on the beach watching the passing parade, we might find a penguin or more wanting a closer introduction. Let’s just say that our own hearts melted. These were moments never to be forgotten.

As you can see, the snows were pristine . . . and inviting to climb. And so we did. Reaching the heights, being the king of all we surveyed was surreal. But sitting down at the top – one after another and – in a row – slip-sliding down the mountain on our seats while laughing like we were young kids, was something that forever after will stand apart.

My family is often asked how many times we have returned to Antarctica. To be honest, we have lost track I believe. But together, it has to have been 14 times or more; the longest expedition was for 2 months. Of the 90 passengers of all ages on our wonderful ship – that was to take us on a semi-circumnavigation of the Antarctic continent, –no passenger was a newcomer.   All had been on many expeditions to the ends of the earth.

You see, this heaven on this earth that is Antarctica had performed its magic on all of us. And yes, we will return once again.

Writer Joan Larsen has spent a lifetime searching for the most remote places on Earth.  But it is the polar regions of our world that she has been drawn back to again and again.  She has done research in these lands of ice, and considers Antarctica to be her “other home.”

I don't know about you but my heart is still racing. Just spectacular beauty...says the one writing
from under a mango tree in Saigon. I can feel it..."heaven on this earth". If you are thinking
about Antarctica too...

From Joan to Jeanne...

Thoughts on a journey to Antarctica:

Antarctica is not cold.  In fact, as the summer season is from November through February, you will find it probably warmer than winter in the United States or Europe.  Temperatures can range from 30s to 40s there in summer – and never has a passenger ever complained about the cold. To me, December is the finest month for a number of reasons but January is a great second choice.

Clothes you will need are very casual, eliminating a need for panic in packing.  Often new parkas are a gift to passengers by the ship so they need not be dragged along.  Clothing is in layers – so easy and passengers are told the few things on outerwear to bring along – so this is less of an issue than on any other trip I have been on.

After a large number of trips down, I would suggest a ship carrying less than 110 passengers. Why?  You have more time on shore as only so many at a time can go.  . but we are talking hours here.  When you go on shore, it is a delight so you want to be on the last Zodiac raft back to the ship – or you are wasting your money.

What tour company do you go with?  At present, a significant number are vying for your business.  You will want a ship with significant lecturers on board with credentials and experience in the Antarctic over time.  Only then will you get your money’s worth – on shore and on the ship.  A good choice is QUARK . . . but there are others to look into.

If possible, go for a maximum amount of days IN Antarctica.  If there is a combination of Antarctica and South Georgia, do take it – as the latter is one of the most beautiful places on our earth.

Antarctica stands alone and apart on this Earth.  You will find it a spiritual journey, indelibly touching mind and heart.  I have travelled on trips into several months down there – with the most prominent explorers and professional photographers on board – and each would tell you that of all the places in the world – on mountains or below the sea – this place is their number one choice and has no equal, changing your life forever after in ways unexplainable.

= Joan Larsen

It is 6:27 pm on friday afternoon in Saigon and the house is still extraordinarily still. I think I just caught a case of pollarhullar and it feels pretty good. With thanks to Joan for sharing her passion for the extremities of the Earth!

You can read more of Joan Larsen's travels at Forming the Thread, Fathom and Maptia.

I leave you with a visual poem 
about the beating heart of adventure.

The Journey - Directed by Casey Warren & Danielle Krieger
from MINDCASTLE on Vimeo.

Wishing one and all a wonderful weekend

with the beating heart of adventure!

Jeanne xx