The beating heart of adventure...Antarctica

It is 5:15pm on Friday afternoon in Saigon and the house is extraordinarily still. I call this the bewitching hour, when I have the house utterly and completely to myself. I wander from space to space, inside and out, enjoying the silence. It is the time of day when my thoughts run away from me and when I realise it is best to just let them run and play. Given my nature, it won't last long so it is best to enjoy it while I can.

I am going to let them run and play all the way to Antarctica. Why? Because I can.

Mr. H and I have a travel bucket list and I have to admit Antarctica has been somewhere on it...until now.

We have had family and friends return from recent trips to Antarctica singing poetically about their travel experiences. Each time I hear a "YOU MUST GO TO ANTARCTICA' my heart starts to do a little dance. I am not sure if it's the thought of the extreme cold or the possibility that I will will fall in love with the vast wilderness of it all.

Enter Joan Lawson, who I have come to appreciate as a pollarhullar, a danish word for a person with the yearning for the polar regions. I have read that a victim of pollarhullar will forever be drawn back to the very extremities of the Earth. Joan has been to Antarctica 14 times and looks forward to the next trip.  I am hoping pollarhullar is not contagions but based on Joan's writing and peoples comments about their experiences I think it might be.

I asked Joan if I could share one of her beautiful blog posts about her travel experiences. I actually asked if she could pick her favorite post as she has many, each one just as beautiful as the last. She suggested the following and I have to agree...if ever you were thinking of travelling to Antarctica, but like me, were not quite sure, this will be the one to do it.

With thanks to Joan for allowing me to enjoy the silence of Antarctica. Following the post, Joan has a few thoughts on the ins and outs of exploring it yourself.

Joan Larsen's Travel: 
Breathtaking Images of Antarctica's Summer
By Joan Larsen
The waves of the world’s Southern Ocean had turned into a rare mirror-like calm as our ship glided into Antarctic waters. The passengers, strangers still, were out on the decks or bridge, watching the first icebergs stand tall on the horizon – looking like city skyscrapers that had mysteriously lost their way. The morning sunlight dappled the waters with flickers of light. No one took notice that the clock had not yet struck 3 AM.
Photo: Avid Travel Media
No one spoke. No one ever seems to speak when we are approaching Antarctica – for it truly is a sacred place that touches each of us in our own way. Much later, I will hear the words: “How could I ever describe this place to anyone?” said by one and all.
You can’t describe Antarctica. No words will ever do it justice. There is no way.
The ship seemed to drift. . . but up ahead the first group of stunning glacier-clad mountains appeared. There was a pureness, a serenity here that could not be matched anywhere in the real world. Real time was gone. Our eyes could not believe what we were seeing.
But now – as if it were planned – the icebergs had caught up to us and – like floats in a Rose Bowl Parade –seemed to vie with one another for the title of largest, most other-worldly, most populated with adorable penguins in their black-and-white head-waiter garb.
To say that we were captivated would be an understatement. Breakfast went by and we did not care. Cameras at the ready, we were out to not miss a single one in the passing parade. In most cases, passengers were the size of ants in comparison to the height and size of the gorgeous icebergs. We actually were at a loss for words.
And the iceberg photos below are but a few that seem to touch my mind and heart in an indelible fashion that first morning. It was then that we had our first Zodiac raft excursions as well to see the icebergs up close – but not too close as we found they could easily flip!
Photo: Steppes Travel
Photo: Steppes Travel
Suddenly appearing – in pods most often – – killer whales having play time would always add to the eye appeal.
Photo: Rebecca Yale Portraits
Photo: Rebecca Yale Portraits
And, as this was early in the season, the passengers fell in love with the babies – seals, sea lions, and penguins – that populate Antarctica in numbers by the millions. On shore – and we were on shore many hours a day – the curiosity of some of the young penguins and seals was too much. We were not to touch them, BUT when we humans were sitting on the beach watching the passing parade, we might find a penguin or more wanting a closer introduction. Let’s just say that our own hearts melted. These were moments never to be forgotten.

As you can see, the snows were pristine . . . and inviting to climb. And so we did. Reaching the heights, being the king of all we surveyed was surreal. But sitting down at the top – one after another and – in a row – slip-sliding down the mountain on our seats while laughing like we were young kids, was something that forever after will stand apart.
6-antarcticaMy family is often asked how many times we have returned to Antarctica. To be honest, we have lost track I believe. But together, it has to have been 14 times or more; the longest expedition was for 2 months. Of the 90 passengers of all ages on our wonderful ship – that was to take us on a semi-circumnavigation of the Antarctic continent, –no passenger was a newcomer.   All had been on many expeditions to the ends of the earth.
You see, this heaven on this earth that is Antarctica had performed its magic on all of us. And yes, we will return once again.
JoanAvatar2Writer Joan Larsen has spent a lifetime searching for the most remote places on Earth.  But it is the polar regions of our world that she has been drawn back to again and again.  She has done research in these lands of ice, and considers Antarctica to be her “other home.”


  1. Hello Jeanne, The photographs are breath taking. I can see why your friend is drawn to Antarctica again and again.
    I can admire the photographs but I don't have to go there. Another one of my shortcomings. My heart always wants to be in Italy.

    1. Following your heart can never go wrong with that. ;)

  2. DO you read SLIM PALEY?She just got back from a trip there with TOM HANKS wife RITA WILSON.The photos were STUNNING!I have no desire to go there................although I do see how MAJESTIC and beautiful it is through these photos.I would be TERRIFIED at every boat living isNOT for me!But I am a RARE BIRD and I bet most of your READERS would LOVE The ADVENTURE!YOU will get there.........just give MISTER H time to plant his orchard!!!XX

    1. Hi Elizabeth, I did read Slim's post...loved it! Especially liked the idea of painting as you go. What a way to travel! Mr. H appreciates your sentiments about an orchard and wondered about the boat trip too. ;)

  3. Beautiful. Thank you Jeanne & Joan

    Photographs of Antarctica are among the most enchanting in the world.
    The isolation difficulties don't erode my enthusiasm for the region.

  4. It's on our list, too.wouldnt it be fun to do it at the same time!

  5. It sounds like a long trip but I am sure it is well worth it. I am drawn to any place that's covered in snow and ice. It must be a reaction to never experiencing them. On the other hand, I tend to stay away from hot and humid places. I am sure that you will make the trip one of these days.

    1. Hope to Loree...I just have to get over the little part about being to prone to motion sickness. I barely made it out to the Barrier Reef for a three hour boat ride in bumpy seas. I am feeling a bit lightheaded just thinking about it again. ;)

  6. Jeanne you took the words out of my mouth....Antarctica is always on my mind....the end of the world, and your blog just hit the spot, the questions, the wanderings, the day dreaming,...really thank you for this post!

    1. Love when someone joins in on the virtual daydream Maria! ;)

  7. Oh you MUST go if given the chance Jeanne! I went in January 2013 and would return in a heart beat if offered another trip! I second all Joan's thoughts on this journey. A small expedition ship is the only way to go - not a cruise ship (no reinforced hull for ice!) with no Zodiac trips ashore, which is the only way to see the wildlife, Definitely do the longer trip which includes breathtaking South Georgia Island (mine also included the Falkland Islands which were wonderful), and try to have some time in Ushuaia and visit Tierra del Fuego - all so beautiful. I never felt unsafe, even when crossing the Drake Passage which was rough but so exciting. As all of us who go say, Antarctica is really visiting 'heaven on earth!
    We traveled with G Adventures on their great ship the M/S Expedition - everything was fabulous, from our Argentinian captain giving tango lessons, to making friends with a baby King penguin who followed us around on South Georgia.
    I have a lot of posts on my blog from the journey - and all photos are my own - you can start here on this link or click on the thumbnails on right column of the blog.

    Oh I hope so much that you go Jeanne!
    Hugs - Mary

    1. Thank you Mary...I am off to copy and paste. All great suggestions! xx


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